Zevenkatten


Kraftkolour Procion MX

Procion is a reactive class of dyes suitable for cellulose fibre. It also dyes silk and wool. Procion dyes are used in cold/warm water.

The dye binds to the yarn through the natural affinity of the dye for the fibre and because of the change in pH caused by adding soda ash at the appropriate time. We use Soda Ash to change the pH and salt to prepare the fibre.

Soda Ash:

Soda (Na2CO3) 

NL: huishoudsoda, natriumcarbonaat, E500.

EN: washing soda , sodium carbonate, soda crystals, soda ash, soda carbonate.

For example: http://www.drogisterij.net/huishoudelijk-Schoonmaakmiddelen-Driehoek-soda-fijn-zak/P/170997
Not all household soda is the same chemical substance. Read the package carefully if one of the terms mentioned above is on the label.

Instructions Procion MX for the exhaustion dyeing method:

Create a solution of salt in lukewarm water:
Dissolve 50 g of salt pe rliter of water to be used. There needs to be sufficient water to fully submerge the fabric.yarn.

Create a solution of soda ash in warm water:
Dissolve the soda ash in as little water as possible. All the soda ash crystals need to be sdissolved. Use an amount of soda ash equal to 10 g per liter of water used in dyeing.

Create the dyeing solution
Dissolve the required amount of dye in hot water and stir until it is fully dissolved. 
The manufacturer of Procion MX recommends using 5 g per 100 g of fabric or yarn for intense colours. 
It is my experience that that leaves huge amounts of dye in the dyebath. For exhaustion dyeing I use 2 g of dye per 100 g of yarn for solid colours, 2,5 g for deep colours. For a pink I would use 1 g of pure red per 100 g of yarn, even less for a light- / baby-pink.

Preparing your yarn:
There is no need to pre-soak cellulose fibres when using the exhaustion dye method. Silk can be pre-soaked in water. Do not use soap! There is no grease or oil to get rid of in cellulose and silk fibres and the soap has an averse effect on the pH reaction caused by the Soda Ash.
Wind the yarn into a skein and bind it loosely in 3 places with a figure 8 through the windings. It is preferable to use a different material to bind off the skein that the yarn on the skein. When dyeing the bindings will be coloured differently than the yarn itself making it easier to find the bindings.
If the skein already has bindings then judge if these arent too tight. If you cannot easily push the windings of the skein next to each other with your fingers or if you cannot do so without having more than 3 layers of windings between your fingers then the skein is bound too tightly. Make your own bindings as described above and cut away the existing bindings.If you doubt wether the existing bindings or the bindings you made yourself are too tight then redo them. 

Calculation example:
You are going to be dyeing 200 g of yarn in a zip-lockor dyepot of suitable size. Use about 2 to 2,5 litres of salt water for 200 g of yarn in ziplock dyeing; using a pot you will probably require a bit more water. This example is based on using 2,5 litres of water.
Dissolve 125 g of salt in 2,5 litres of cold / lukewarm water.
Dissolve 25 g of soda ash in as little as possible water and mix untill all crystals have dissolved. This solution of soda won't be used untill 20 minutes of dyeing time have gone by, but it is easiest to have it prepared and ready to use before beginning the dye process.

Steps:
1) Fill the pot or ziplock with the saline solution. 
2) Add the prepared dye solution
3) Mix the water and dye well so a uniform dyebath is created
4) Add the yarn to the dyebath and submerge it.
5) For ziplock dyeing: close the ziplock and push out as much air as possible from the bag before closing the last centimeter of the zip.
6) Leave the yarn for 20 minutes; move the yarn regularly to avoid uneven dyeing.
7) After 20 minutes add the soda ash solution and mix well. The pH reaction caused by the soda ash binds the dye to the yarn. It causes the colour of the dyebath to intensify, this is especially noticable in yellow or orange dyebaths. This intensity dissappears as you stir the dyebath causing the pH of teh entire dyebath to equalize.
8) Keep the yarn in the dyebath for another 20 minutes, move the yarn regularly to avoid uneven dyeing.
9) Remove the yarn from the dyebath and rinse well in cold water. Carefully squeeze excess water from the yarn. Do not wring, fold the yarn and gently squeeze.
10) Wash the yarn in soapy water. Knijp het garen voorzichtig uit. 
Carefully squeeze excess water from the yarn. Do not wring, fold the yarn and gently squeeze.
11) Rinse the yarn in tepid water until it runs clear. 
Carefully squeeze excess water from the yarn. Do not wring, fold the yarn and gently squeeze.
12) Let the yarn dry and use it in your project.
13) Always handwash yarn that is handdyed or use Soak.

Handdyed yarn (and many machine dyed yarns) will generally bleed a bit of colour when washing. Wearing the fabric causes wear on the yarn and this releases a bit of colour. This is a normal effect. Your washwater can have a bit of colour. If it is getting hard to see through something didnt go right in binding the colour during the dyeing process. Either not enough soda ash was used causing insufficient binding of the dye or too much dye was used and the yarn wasn't properly rinsed clear.
In these cases it sometimes helps to prepare a new soda ash solution and repeating the soaking process to bind the remaining dye.

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